After the success of the tote bag with pocket divider tutorial that I posted about 3 weeks ago, I decided to create a simpler bag making project that has not much fuss yet still show a particular technique that will  hopefully enrich your bag making skill (if you are not an expert already by now ;)..), in this case, the recessed zipper.

Beside the zipper, the overall construction of this bag is relatively easy, and doable for a confident beginner as well. The use of the jelly roll strips for the exterior shell adds interesting look to the bag, and more fun to this project.

Let's get started!

Supplies 
-2 jelly roll strips (2.5" pre cut strips) for fabric A & B
-1/4 yard of fabric for the accent fabric (you can also use a fat quarter) Fabric C
- 1/3 yard of lining fabric
-1/4 yard of fabric for the strap
- 2/3 yard of fusible woven interfacing (20" wide)
- 24" x 12.5" fusible fleece (thermolam)
- Nylon coil zipper (at least 12" long)
- 1" Drings (2x)
- 1" Swivel hooks (2x)
- 1" adjuster slider
- Basting tape
- Basic sewing notions

I posted the full video tutorial on my Youtube channel, below is the link. You may also scroll down below for the cutting and written instruction.

CUTTING

*For the patchwork, refer to step 1-4 directions

~Exterior Shell~
Lower front exterior panel : 12.5" x 4" (cut 1x) from fabric C
Lower back exterior panel : 12.5" x 8" (cut 1) from fabric C
Fusible woven interfacing : 12.5" x 12" (cut 2x)
Fusible Fleece : 12.5" x 11.5" (cut 2x)
***If using solid fabric (no patchwork) cut 12.5" x 12" (2x) for the exterior fabric

~Recessed Zipper~
Zipper tabs : 3" x 2" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric (or scraps)
Zipper panels : 10" x 4" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric (or scraps)

~Interior~
Lining : 12.5" x 12" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric
Slip Pockets : 12.5" x 6" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric

~Strap~
Strap Anchors : 5" x 4" (cut 1x)
Adjustable strap : 60" x4" 
Fusible woven interfacing : 59" x 2"

DIRECTIONS

1. Prepare the Jelly Roll Strips (fabric A & Fabric B), sew them together with 1/4" of seam allowance.

2. Press the seams towards one side.

3. Trim the selvage ends off.

4. Measure 12.5" and cut (make 3x)

5. Sew two of the jelly roll panels together with 1/4" seam allowance, press 

6. Sew the jelly roll fabric with the lower panel with 1/4" of seam allowance, press.

7. Sew the remaining jelly roll panel and the lower back exterior piece together with 1/4" of seam allowance, press.

8. Apply the fusible woven interfacing followed with the fusible fleece on the wrong side of both the front and back panel.

9. Measure and draw 1.5" rectangle on both bottom corners of the bag, cut.

10. Lay the front and back exterior fabric right side together, secure them in place with some sewing clips, then sew the sides and the bottom with 1/2" of seam allowance.

11. Open the corner, match and secure the seams with a sewing clip then sew with 1/2" of seam allowance; do the same with the other side.

12. Trim your zipper to measure exactly 12" long (from one end to another)

13. Fold the end of the zipper tab (widthwise) about 1/2", press, fold the opposite end 1/2" press.

14. Fold the zipper tab right side together, aligning the folded edges, then sew the sides with 1/4" of seam allowance

15. Turn the zipper tab inside out, press; do the same with the other piece.

16. Insert the end of the zipper into the zipper tab pocket; do the same with the other side, secure them in place with pins, then sew all around the edges of the zipper tabs with 1/8" of seam allowance.

17. Prepare the zipper panels, fold the end of the zipper panel in 1/2", press, do the same with the other side, fold the zipper panel in half, press, for the edges toward the center fold, press, then fold everything in half again, and press. Both of your zipper panels should end up measuring 9" x 1".

18. Cut two basting tape the same length as your zipper panel, then apply them on the edges of your zipper tape, both the top and the bottom (you want to position the basting tape starting from the start of the zipper)

19. Feed the zipper tape into the fold of the zipper panel, neaten the position, then finger press the zipper panel to make sure it's sticking to the basting tape; pop a couple pins to add extra security, then sew the sides and the lower edges (do not sew the upper/outer edges)

20. Repeat the same with the other side.

21. Lay the slip pocket pieces right side together, sew the top and the bottom with 1/4" of seam allowance; press; turn right side out.

22. Press the pocket; top stitch along the upper edges.

23. Position the pocket on the right side of the lining piece, about 3.5" away from the top; draw a line on the center, then sew along the center line, and the bottom as well.

24. Lay the zipper panel on the right side of the lining 1.5" away from the top, aligning the center point of the zipper with the center of the lining; pin; sew along the edges with 1/8" of seam allowance

25.  Repeat the same with the other side of the zipper panel.

26. Assemble the lining the same way as the exterior shell; leave about 5" of opening at the bottom to turn the bag inside out.

27. Fold the strap anchor in half widthwise; press; fold the edges towards the center fold; press; fold everything in half; press.

28. Sew the folded edges with 1/8" seam allowance; cut in half.

29. Insert the strap anchors to the d-rings, position them on both sides of the bag (right on the side seams); sew with 1/4" of seam allowance.

30. Sew the strap; watch the video tutorial here.

31. Turn the exterior shell wrong side out, and the lining right side out; insert the lining into the exterior shell; secure with sewing clips; sew with 1/2" of seam allowance.

32. Turn the bag inside out through the opening hole, press the edges; topstitch.

33. Sew the opening hole close.

34. Tuck the lining bag inside; attach the strap; enjoy!

Supplies and Tools
​3 Fat Quarters (or 1/3 yard of each fabric if using yardage) 
2 yards cotton fabric for the lining 
2 yards fusible woven interfacing (20" wide)
Fusible fleece (thermolam) 22" x 21"
Soft n Stable (1/4" thick sew in foam stabilizer) 34" x 4"
2 x size 3 zipper at least 11" long
10" long elastic (1/4" wide)
1 set of magnetic snap
Basic sewing notions

Disclaimer : This post contains Amazon affiliate links, thank you for your support!

Cutting Instruction

FRONT EXTERIOR ZIPPER POCKET
From Fabric 1  
7" x 3" (upper panel) cut 1x
​7" x 8 1/2" (lower panel) cut 1x

From the fusible woven interfacing:
7" x 3" (upper panel) cut 1x
7" x 8 1/2"" (lower panel) cut 1x

From Lining Fabric:
7" x 8 1/2" (lining 1 for lower panel) cut 1x
7" x 11 1/2" (lining 2 for the whole zipper panel) cut 1x

***For the zipper tabs 3" x 1" (cut 2x) from fabric 1

FRONT EXTERIOR SIDE PANELS
From Fabric 2: 3" x 11 1/2" (cut 2x)
​From fusible woven interfacing: 3" x 11 1/2" (cut 2x)

BACK EXTERIOR SLIP POCKET 
From Fabric 1:  11" x 8 1/2" (cut 1x)
From fusible woven interfacing: 11" x 8 1/2" (cut 1x)
From lining fabric 11" x 8 1/2" (cut 1x)

BACK EXTERIOR PANEL
From fabric 3: 11" x 4" (upper) cut 1x
From lining fabric: 11" x 8" (lower) cut 1x
From Fusible woven interfacing: 11" x 11 1/2" (cut 1x)

***Fusible Fleece for the front and back exterior 11" x 10 1/2" (cut 2x)

SIDE GUSSET
From Fabric 2: 5" x 11 1/2" (cut 2x)  
From Fusible woven interfacing: 5" x 11 1/2" (cut 2x)
From Soft n stable 4" x 10 1/2" (cut 2x)

BOTTOM GUSSET 
From Fabric 3: 5" x 11" (cut 1x)
From fusible woven interfacing: 5" x 11" (cut 1x)
From Soft n Stable: 4" x 10" (cut 1x)

EXTERIOR SIDE POCKETS 
From Fabric 3: 7" x 8" (cut 2x)
From lining fabric: 7" x 8" (cut 2x)
​Cut 2x elastic 5" long

POCKET DIVIDER
From lining fabric:  11" x 8 1/2" (cut 4x)
From fusible woven interfacing:  10" x 7 1/2" (cut 4x)
***For zipper tabs 3" x 1" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric

INTERIOR SIDE GUSSET
From lining fabric:  3" x 11 1/2" (cut 4x)

INTERIOR BOTTOM GUSSET 
From lining fabric 3" x 11" (cut 2x)

INTERIOR FRONT & BACK PANELS
From lining fabric:  11" x 11 1/5" (cut 2x)

INTERIOR SLIP POCKETS
From lining fabric 11" x 7" (cut 4x)

STRAPS
Cut by joining left over fat quarters or use a solid fabric 26" x 4" (2x)
Fusible woven interfacing 26" x 2" (2x)

*If you are a metric user you may refer to the below metric conversion guide 

I posted the full video tutorial on my Youtube channel, however you my scroll down for the written instruction. 

Directions

1. Apply the fusible woven interfacing to the following :
    1. Front Zipper Tabs
    2. Upper and lower front zipper panels
    3. Front Side panels
    4. Back slip pocket panel
    5. Divider pocket pieces including the zipper tabs
  
2. Sew the zipper tabs to the front zipper, trim excess fabric

3. Sew the upper front zipper panel to the zipper with 1/4" seam allowance, press, then topstitch

4. Sandwich the lower front zipper panel, with the zipper, and the lining, sew with 1/4" of seam allowance, press, then topstitch

5. Sew the second  lining piece to the zipper pocket piece all around with 1/4" of seam allowance

5. Sew the front side panels to both sides of the zipper pocket with 1/2" seam allowance, press towards the side panels.

6. Apply the fusible fleece to the front exterior panel according to the manufacturer's instruction

7. Sew the upper and the lower panel of the back exterior with 1/4" of seam allowance, press, then apply the fusible woven interfacing followed with the fusible fleece

8.  Sew the back slip pocket piece with the lining with 1/4" of seam allowance, press, then top stitch along the top edges.

9. Position the back slip pocket on the right side of back panel, alligning the sides and bottom edges, then sew along the sides and the bottom with 1/4" of seam allowance. 

10. Place the soft n stable on the wrong side of the gusset piece (center the position) followed with the fusible woven interfacing, then fuse the fusible woven interfacing in place. Repeat the same with the other side gusset piece and the bottom gusset

11. Make an angle cut on both sides of the side pocket panels, do the same for all pieces including the lining.
​

12. Lay the pocket piece with the lining right side together then sew the top edge with 1/4" seam allowance, press the seams open.

13. Fold the pocket piece wrong side together, press, then sew the top with 1/2" seam allowance to create the elastic casing.

14. Cut 5" long elastic. Thread the elastic to the casing with the help of a safety pin, sew the edges to secure it in place

15: Place the pocket to the right side of the side gusset, aligning the sides and the bottom edges, then sew along the sides and the bottom with 1/4" of seam allowance.

16. Assemble the exterior piece starting from sewing the side gussets to the front panel, then the back panel, then the bottom gusset.

17. Sew the zipper tabs to the zipper for the pocket divider

18. Sandwich the pocket divider, zipper, and the second piece of the pocket divider, secure with some sewing clips then sew with 1/4" of seam allowance

19. Open the sandwich, press the seams, then topstitch.

20. Sandwich the 3rd pocket divider, zipper, and the last pocket divider piece, secure with some sewing clips then sew with 1/4" seam allowance

21. Open the sandwich, press the seams, then topstitch.

22. Fold the zipper in half, with the zipper now positioned on top.

23. Sandwich the side gusset strip, the pocket divider, and the side gusset strip, sew with 1/2" seam allowance. Press towards the side

24. Repeat the same with the other side.

25. Sandwich the bottom gusset strip, the pocket divider, the bottom gusset strip, (there should be 1/2" overlap on both sides for the seam allowance, then sew with 1/2" seam allowance. Do not sew the overlap.

26. Sew the bottom corner of the side gusset to the bottom corner of the bottom gusset with 1/2" seam allowance

27. Repeat the same for all other 3 corners

28. Prepare two of the slip pocket pieces, lay them right side together, then sew the top, and the bottom with 1/4" of seam allowance. Press the seams open, turn the pocket piece right side out, then topstitch along the upper edge.

29. Lay the pocket piece on the right side of the front lining piece, 3" down from the top. 

30. Draw a line on the center of the pocket, pin the pocket in place, then sew along the center line, and the bottom as well.

31. Repeat the same for the back slip pockets.
32. Apply the magnetic snap closures on both the front and back panels

33. Sew the front and back panel to the gussets with 1/2" of seam allowance.

34. Use left over fat quarters to make the straps by extracting 4" strips then join them together.

35. Apply the fusible woven interfacing to the straps, then press straps to make 1" wide straps.

36. Sew both edges of the straps with 1/8" seam allowance

37. Fold the raw edges of the exterior 1/2" towards the wrong side, press. Fold the raw edges of the lining 3/4" towards the wrong side, press.

39. Position the straps  to the exterior piece, 1/2" away from the side seams, secure in place with some sewing clips. 

40. Insert the interior piece in to the exterior piece, secure everything with some sewing clips, the sew with 1/4" of seam allowance.

Voila! The bag is done. If you are a bit lost with the instructions, you can always refer to the video tutorial, or reach out to me directly through comments below, contact form, or social media. Happy Sewing!