Large Canvas Foldover Bag Sewing tutorial with zipper closure

You may notice that I seldom use other fabric than cotton quilting fabric for most of my bags. The reason is simple...I'm a quilter, and I always have quilt fabrics in my stash, plus, I simply love the abundance of gorgeous prints and colors that quilting fabrics tend to offer.

However, this year I'd like to explore various different fabrics, those that are heavier in weight, with different textures, yet still can be sewn with domestic sewing machine. 

So I went to Joann, and after roaming around their home decor fabric section, I found this plaid canvas in blue and beige shades and thought ...Bingo!! This is exactly what I want for my next bag project. I also needed an accent fabric, so I picked this duck canvas in brown color.

Other than canvas fabric you may also use denim, linen, lightweight leather/faux leather, and of course quilt weight fabric.

I posted the full tutorial on my Youtube channel, or may also continue scrolling to read the written instructions.

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SUPPLIES

Fabric
Fabric A (main fabric): 1/2 yard Fabric
B : 1/4 yard Lining fabric 1/2 yard
*based on 45" width of fabric

Interfacing 
Fusible fleece 17" x 14.5" (2x)
Peltex 70 sew-in interfacing 11" x 3"
Fusible woven interfacing 12" x 4"

Zipper and hardwares
Purse zipper (at least 16" long)
All purpose zipper (for the pocket) at least 7" long
1" d-rings (2x)
1" swivel hooks (2x)
1" adjuster slider

Basic Sewing notions

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CUTTING 

Front & Back exterior
From fabric A : 17" x 12" (cut 2x)
From fabric B : 17" x 3" (cut 2x)

Front and back lining
From lining fabric : 17" x 14.5" (cut 2x)

Bottom gusset
From Fabric B : 12" x 4" (cut 1x)
From Lining Fabric : 11" x 3" (cut 1x)

Internal slip pockets
From lining fabric : 17" x 7" (cut 2x)

Zipper pockets
From lining fabric : 10" x 9" (cut 2x)

Zipper tabs
From fabric B : 3" x 2" (cut 2x)

Strap Anchors
From fabric A : Cut 5" x 4" (cut 1x)

Strap
Cut a 4" strip measuring about 50"-60" long

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DIRECTIONS

1. Cut your fabric pieces according to the above cutting instructions
2. Sew the front fabric A panel with the front Fabric B panel with 1/4" of seam allowance, press, repeat the same for the back exterior.

3. Apply the fusible fleece on both front and back exterior (center the position)

4. Lay the slip pocket pieces right side together, sew with 1/4" of seam allowance, press, turn the pocket inside out, press again, top stitch along the top edges.
5. Use fabric marker to draw 2 lines to (6" from both ends of the pocket), position the pocket on the right side of the lining, 4" down from the top, then sew along the marked lines, and the bottom edges of the pocket.

6. Sew the zipper pocket, you may watch the tutorial here.

7. Apply the interfacings to the bottom gusset; layout the peltex on the wrong side of the gusset, then lay the fusible woven interfacing on top of the peltex glue side down, then fuse them in place (the woven interfacing will seal the peltex in place).

8. Trim your purse zipper to measure exactly 16" (from one end to another)

9. Fold the edges of the zipper tabs 1/4", press, then fold in half (meeting the folded edges), press 

10. Insert the edges of the zipper into the fold of the zipper tab, all the way in. Sew along the edges with 1/8" of seam allowance, trim excess fabric of the zipper tabs.

11. Prepare the strap anchor, fold it in half widthwise, press. Open the fold, fold the edges towards the center fold, press. Fold everything in half, press (you should end up with a 5" x 1" strip.

12. Sew the side edges of the strap anchor with 1/8" of seam allowance, cut the strip in half.

13. Fold the end of the strap 1/2", press, do the same with the opposite end, then proceed the fold and pressing method the same way as the strap anchors. Sew all around the edges with 1/8" of seam allowance. Attach the hardwares (the swivel hooks and the adjuster slider)

14. Lay the front exterior piece right side up, lay the zipper right side down (center the position of the zipper, there should be 1/2" gap on both sides), lay the lining right side down, secure the sandwich with some sewing clips then sew with 3/8" seam allowance.

15. Separate the zipper from the fabric, press, then topstitch.

16. Lay the back exterior right side up, lay the zipper right side down, lay the lining right side down, secure everything with fabric clips then sew along the edges with 3/8" seam allowance. Separate the zipper from the fabric, press, then topstitch.

17. Feed the strap anchors over the d-rings, position them 2.5" from the top edge, sew with 1/4" of seam allowance (do not sew the lining)

18. Separate the exterior from the lining (make sure to unzip your zipper at least halfway, secure the sides with some sewing clips; make sure to match the zipper seams.

19. Start sewing from the top of the exterior, with 1/2" seam allowance. When starting, you want to position your needle next to the zipper tab (make sure not so sew over with)

20. Then sew from the top of the lining (simply continue the previous stitch line), again making sure your needle wouldn't bump into the zipper tab.

21. Sew the opposite side the same way.

22. Find the center point of all 4 sides of the bottom gusset by folding it in half then make a little notch with your scissors.

23. Match the side seams of the bag then cut some notches at the center points.

24. Attach the gusset the the bottom of the bag matching the notches first, then sew with 1/2" of seam allowance.

25. Sew the lining gusset the same way, leave about 6" of opening to turn the bag inside out.

26. Turn the bag inside out through the opening hole.
27. Sew the opening hole close
28. Attach the strap
​29. Enjoy!