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Striped crossbody bag with recessed zipper sewing tutorial

1/30/2020

8 Comments

 
Picture
Striped crossbody bag with recessed zipper - Front
After the success of the tote bag with pocket divider tutorial that I posted about 3 weeks ago, I decided to create a simpler bag making project that has not much fuss yet still show a particular technique that will  hopefully enrich your bag making skill (if you are not an expert already by now ;)..), in this case, the recessed zipper.

Beside the zipper, the overall construction of this bag is relatively easy, and doable for a confident beginner as well. The use of the jelly roll strips for the exterior shell adds interesting look to the bag, and more fun to this project.
Picture
Striped crossbody bag with recessed zipper - Back
Let's get started!

Supplies 
-2 jelly roll strips (2.5" pre cut strips) for fabric A & B
-1/4 yard of fabric for the accent fabric (you can also use a fat quarter) Fabric C
- 1/3 yard of lining fabric
-1/4 yard of fabric for the strap
- 2/3 yard of fusible woven interfacing (20" wide)
- 24" x 12.5" fusible fleece (thermolam)
- Nylon coil zipper (at least 12" long)
- 1" Drings (2x)
- 1" Swivel hooks (2x)
- 1" adjuster slider
- Basting tape
- Basic sewing notions

I posted the full video tutorial on my Youtube channel, below is the link. You may also scroll down below for the cutting and written instruction.

CUTTING

*For the patchwork, refer to step 1-4 directions

~Exterior Shell~
Lower front exterior panel : 12.5" x 4" (cut 1x) from fabric C
Lower back exterior panel : 12.5" x 8" (cut 1) from fabric C
Fusible woven interfacing : 12.5" x 12" (cut 2x)
Fusible Fleece : 12.5" x 11.5" (cut 2x)
***If using solid fabric (no patchwork) cut 12.5" x 12" (2x) for the exterior fabric

~Recessed Zipper~
Zipper tabs : 3" x 2" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric (or scraps)
Zipper panels : 10" x 4" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric (or scraps)

~Interior~
Lining : 12.5" x 12" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric
Slip Pockets : 12.5" x 6" (cut 2x) from the lining fabric

~Strap~
Strap Anchors : 5" x 4" (cut 1x)
Adjustable strap : 60" x4" 
Fusible woven interfacing : 59" x 2"

DIRECTIONS

1. Prepare the Jelly Roll Strips (fabric A & Fabric B), sew them together with 1/4" of seam allowance.
2. Press the seams towards one side.
3. Trim the selvage ends off.
4. Measure 12.5" and cut (make 3x)
5. Sew two of the jelly roll panels together with 1/4" seam allowance, press 
6. Sew the jelly roll fabric with the lower panel with 1/4" of seam allowance, press.
7. Sew the remaining jelly roll panel and the lower back exterior piece together with 1/4" of seam allowance, press.
8. Apply the fusible woven interfacing followed with the fusible fleece on the wrong side of both the front and back panel.
9. Measure and draw 1.5" rectangle on both bottom corners of the bag, cut.
10. Lay the front and back exterior fabric right side together, secure them in place with some sewing clips, then sew the sides and the bottom with 1/2" of seam allowance.

11. Open the corner, match and secure the seams with a sewing clip then sew with 1/2" of seam allowance; do the same with the other side.
12. Trim your zipper to measure exactly 12" long (from one end to another)
13. Fold the end of the zipper tab (widthwise) about 1/2", press, fold the opposite end 1/2" press.
14. Fold the zipper tab right side together, aligning the folded edges, then sew the sides with 1/4" of seam allowance
15. Turn the zipper tab inside out, press; do the same with the other piece.
16. Insert the end of the zipper into the zipper tab pocket; do the same with the other side, secure them in place with pins, then sew all around the edges of the zipper tabs with 1/8" of seam allowance.
17. Prepare the zipper panels, fold the end of the zipper panel in 1/2", press, do the same with the other side, fold the zipper panel in half, press, for the edges toward the center fold, press, then fold everything in half again, and press. Both of your zipper panels should end up measuring 9" x 1".
18. Cut two basting tape the same length as your zipper panel, then apply them on the edges of your zipper tape, both the top and the bottom (you want to position the basting tape starting from the start of the zipper)
19. Feed the zipper tape into the fold of the zipper panel, neaten the position, then finger press the zipper panel to make sure it's sticking to the basting tape; pop a couple pins to add extra security, then sew the sides and the lower edges (do not sew the upper/outer edges)
20. Repeat the same with the other side.
21. Lay the slip pocket pieces right side together, sew the top and the bottom with 1/4" of seam allowance; press; turn right side out.
22. Press the pocket; top stitch along the upper edges.
23. Position the pocket on the right side of the lining piece, about 3.5" away from the top; draw a line on the center, then sew along the center line, and the bottom as well.
24. Lay the zipper panel on the right side of the lining 1.5" away from the top, aligning the center point of the zipper with the center of the lining; pin; sew along the edges with 1/8" of seam allowance
25.  Repeat the same with the other side of the zipper panel.
26. Assemble the lining the same way as the exterior shell; leave about 5" of opening at the bottom to turn the bag inside out.
27. Fold the strap anchor in half widthwise; press; fold the edges towards the center fold; press; fold everything in half; press.
28. Sew the folded edges with 1/8" seam allowance; cut in half.
29. Insert the strap anchors to the d-rings, position them on both sides of the bag (right on the side seams); sew with 1/4" of seam allowance.
30. Sew the strap; watch the video tutorial here.
31. Turn the exterior shell wrong side out, and the lining right side out; insert the lining into the exterior shell; secure with sewing clips; sew with 1/2" of seam allowance.
32. Turn the bag inside out through the opening hole, press the edges; topstitch.
33. Sew the opening hole close.
34. Tuck the lining bag inside; attach the strap; enjoy!
8 Comments
Mabel Alberti
2/1/2020 08:18:27 pm

Hi Joan
First of all thank you for doing this videos I am a relative new sewer and I have learn through videos that you guys so nicely post for us.
I liic e this bag I will make it for my daughter.
I have a question why fusible fleece thermolan isn't that use only for bags that will keep something hot or warm?
Could you please advise me?

Thank you

Reply
Yoan
2/3/2020 12:59:07 pm

Hi Mabel,

Fusible fleece (thermolam) is actually not the insulated kind (I know, they sound and seem similar), but I believe the insulated kind is called insul-fleece, there is so many kinds of interfacing available that it can get confusing sometimes. Hope this explains well..:)
See the links below, so you can compare the difference
Fusible Fleece (thermolam) https://amzn.to/37WKGvJ
Insul-Fleece http://bit.ly/2uTm4pm

Hope this explains well..:) Thank you, Happy Sewing!

Reply
Mabel Alberti
2/4/2020 06:56:33 pm

Hi Joan
Thank you so much. Really appreciate it.
😊

Aruna
7/6/2020 09:12:45 pm

Hello Yoan,
I am not a beginner to sewing but have begun doing bags rather recently. While I managed a few with bags with pockets and even a mens style wallet with card slots using my own designs, they werent the best finished projects, and I always shied clear of zippers. Lockdown got me going on bag sewing again and I stumbled upon one of your videos.
Your step by step tutorials, clear instructions with photos and your videos are all amazing. From your tutorials once one gets familiar with skills such as recessed zipper, zipper pockets stitching, slip pockets stitching, loops, straps etc and it gets so easy to make ones own designs! Thank you so much and please continue to post and add newer touches to your projects. I also love the lists that are included of materials and then the cutting instructions. Everything is precise and clear and super user friendly. You are amazing....
From a forever fan from India!
Thanks a bunch
Cheers
Aruna

Reply
Heather
8/11/2020 06:45:37 am

I am fairly new to sewing with precuts like jelly rolls, would this bag be ok to be washed in the washing machine when it was finished?

Reply
Yon
8/24/2020 11:33:57 am

Hi Heather,

I always recommend to spot clean your Handmade bags only, or hand wash and dry flat if you really need to get it washed.
Ps: applying fabric protectant spray, when finished sewing the bag, will help prevent your bag from liquid and stain.
Thanks!

Reply
Mandy Sleight
11/30/2020 06:48:32 pm

I just came across your videos this weekend & LOVE them, I want to make so many bags now!
I just had a quick question, and I'm sure I could figure it out but you may have already done something like this:
I LOVE this jelly roll bag, but I also loved the front zipper pocket of the red and gray patchwork bag from October 2019, is there a way of combining the zippered front pocket of that pattern with this bag?
Thanks for taking the time to teach us, and for sharing your talents with us.
Mandy

Reply
Lynette
6/22/2021 06:18:20 am

You are an amazing teacher and so easy to follow your
directions. Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us.

Reply

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